"Self-guided"
Lecture
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Additional information that will help you to complete your study guide is included in the descriptions of the sites we have visited on our trips (Highlights from Previous Trips). The number of questions you have about this information will depend on the depth of your background in natural history. Contact the instructor (meberle@fhsu.edu) with all of your questions as you read this material and complete your study guide.Information for this on-line "lecture" and the summaries in the "Highlights from Previous Trips" webpages was derived from the references listed below (and listed on individual webpages), as well as from educational materials and observations at the parks and other public sites we have visited.
- Agee, J.K. 1993. Fire ecology of Pacific Northwest forests. Island Press, Washington, D.C.
- Alt, D.D., and D.W. Hyndman. 1975. Roadside geology of northern California. Mountain Press Publishing Company, Missoula, Montana.
- Alt, D.D., and D.W. Hyndman. 1978. Roadside geology of Oregon. Mountain Press Publishing Company, Missoula, Montana.
- Alt, D.D., and D.W. Hyndman. 1984. Roadside geology of Washington. Mountain Press Publishing Company, Missoula, Montana.
- Johnston, V.R. 1994. California forests and woodlands: a natural history. University of California Press, Berkeley.
- Lanner, R.M. 1999. Conifers of California. Cachuma Press, Los Olivos, California.
- Schultz, S.T. 1990. The Northwest Coast: a natural history. Timber Press, Portland, Oregon. (Primary source, originally used as the text for the class, but it is no longer in print. The author referenced sources for his general explanations.)
- Trudell, S. 2002. Mycorrhizas (5): fall mushrooms, ghostly fungus-robbers, and a definition revisited. Mushroom: the Journal of Wild Mushrooming, Issue 77, Fall. On-line version accessed 21 June 2006 at http://www.mykoweb.com/articles/Mycorrhizas_5.html.
- Wiedemann, A.M., L.R.J. Dennis, and F.H. Smith. 1999. Plants of the Oregon coastal dunes. Oregon State University Press, Corvallis.
In areas where the plates are moving toward each other, trenches (subduction zones) form where the heavier basalt of the oceanic plate moves under the lighter materials of the continental plate. For example, the East Pacific Plate (which is comprised of the Juan de Fuca and Gorda plates shown on the map handout) is moving under the continental plate along the Pacific Northwest coast north of Cape Mendocino. As the subducting plate is deflected at an angle under the continental plate, it reaches a depth at which the high temperature and pressure cause it to melt. This molten material then rises to the surface, where it can flow over the surface (e.g., basalt lava flows) or solidify beneath the surface (e.g., granite batholiths) in volcanically active areas, such as the Cascade Mountains.
The coast of a continent that is separated from a mid-oceanic ridge by oceanic crust, as occurs along the eastern coast of North America, is known as a passive margin where erosion dominates. The coast of a continent near the leading edge of the plate, as occurs along the coast of the Pacific Northwest, creates an active margin where volcanic activity and accretion dominate.
Batholiths (large volumes) and plutons (small volumes) are examples of intrusive deposits, in which the molten material solidifies before reaching the surface. For example, the granite peaks in Sierra Nevada were subsurface volcanic deposits that were later exposed by uplift and erosion of the overlying geological materials (see handouts).
Extension can cause elongated blocks of land to rise (mountain ranges) or fall (intervening basins). These mountain ranges tend to run parallel to each other, as seen in the north-south ranges of the Great Basin from the Sierra Nevada of eastern California to the Wasatch Mountains of eastern Utah (see handouts).
Compression can fold and lift layers of rock into upward bulges. The Olympic Mountains of northwestern Washington and the Coast Ranges of western Oregon and northern California are comprised of uplifted material scraped from the surface of the oceanic crust as it slides under the continental plate (see handouts).
In the subtropics (about 30° latitude), the cool air descends, and as it does, it becomes warmer and drier (warmer air can hold more water, so the relative humidity drops). This creates an area of high pressure (e.g., North Pacific High, discussed below) near the surface. This air reaching the surface diverges away from the area of high pressure to the south (back to tropics) and to the north. This circulation is complemented by a second area of rising air at about 60° latitude, which creates a northern area of lower pressure (e.g., Aleutian Low, discussed below).
As air shifts to the north, its relative speed as it circles the planet is greater than the rotational speed of the Earth at the more northerly latitude, so the faster air moving north is displaced to the right (to the east). As air shifts to the south, its relative speed as it circles the planet is less than the rotational speed of the Earth at the more southerly latitude; thus, the slower air moving south is also displaced to right (this time to the west). In the Northern Hemisphere, air moving north or south is displaced to the right.
Therefore, air moving out from areas of high pressure is displaced to the right, which creates a clockwise flow around the center of the high pressure area. Likewise, air moving into areas of low pressure is also displaced to the right, which creates a counterclockwise flow around the center of the low pressure area.
The North Pacific High (generally west of California) expands during the summer, as the sun and warmer temperatures shift to the north, and it contracts during the winter, as the sun shifts to the south. The clockwise rotation around the North Pacific High brings winds generally from the northwest to the coast of the Pacific Northwest during the summer.
Conversely, the Aleutian Low to the north expands during the winter, as the sun shifts to the south, and it contracts during the summer, as the sun shifts to the north. The counterclockwise rotation around the Aleutian Low brings winds generally out of the southwest along the coast of the Pacific Northwest during the winter.
In the Mountains: Temperatures at higher elevations are relatively cooler than at lower elevations nearby. Air pressure decreases as altitude increases; thus, heat is lost as air rises over the mountains, producing cooler temperatures at higher elevations.

As moisture-laden air moves to the east and rises over mountains, it cools, which causes its capacity to hold water to decrease, so precipitation falls as the air moves up the western slopes of mountains in the Northern Hemisphere. As the now drier air moves back down the eastern slope of the mountain, it warms as it descends, which increases its capacity to hold water (i.e., decreases its relative humidity), so conditions are more arid on eastern slopes. Additionally (in the Northern Hemisphere), solar radiation is greater on south-facing slopes, which increases evapotranspiration and creates drier conditions than on the north-facing slopes that receive less solar radiation. Thus, at the same elevations, conditions are generally drier on the south-facing slope than on the north-facing slope, and conditions are drier on the east-facing slope than on the west-facing slope.
During the summer, warmer air holds more moisture, so only 5% of the annual precipitation on the Pacific Northwest coast falls during July and August. However, fog is produced along the coast during the summer. Air cools as it reaches the relatively cooler ocean. The temperature of water changes much more slowly than the temperature of air, which is why the ocean is relatively cooler than the air during the summer and relatively warmer during the winter. The water temperature is even cooler along the coast where summer upwelling occurs (described below). This cooling effect of the ocean on the air increases the relative humidity of the air and, at about 45°F, the moisture condenses as fog. This cool, moist air is relatively dense, so fog stays near the surface and spreads inland at night as the temperature over the land cools. This fog layer slowly dissipates as the air and land warm during the day, reducing the relative humidity. In addition, the speed of air flowing out of a high pressure zone is more constant than wind associated with low pressure, and this results in a generally lighter wind along the Pacific Northwest coast during the summer, allowing the morning fog to persist.
The Subarctic Current (North Pacific Drift) flows east across the northern Pacific Ocean and diverges north and south near the Northwest coast. The California Current is the south-flowing branch that moves down the coast of Washington, Oregon, and California. Because of the Coriolis effect, moving objects veer to the right relative to the Earth in the Northern Hemisphere (as with high and low pressure areas discussed above). Thus, during the summer, the prevailing winds and ocean currents from the north where they flow parrllel to the coast move the ocean water offshore (to the right), which produces lower pressure and lower sea-levels near the coast (within about 15 km). Deeper water moves up to fill this "void"; this is referred to as upwelling.
Compared to surface water, the deeper water is cooler and contains more nutrients, both of which are important to coastal ecosystems. The cooler water helps to generate summer fog along the coast, which provides moisture to forest plants, in the form of "drip" from trees (see additional comments for the redwood forests in the Highlights from Previous Trips section of this website. The greater nutrient load in the upwelling supports an important phytoplankton bloom that, in turn, supports other components of the coastal marine ecosystem.
In general, winds that generate upwelling are not as strong or reliable off the coast in the northwestern USA as they are in California, but the presence of deep, underwater canyons off the Northwest coast enhances the nutrients in the rising water (NOAA website). Variability in wind speed and direction and in physical features along the coastline affect the extent of the upwelling. The greatest upwelling where we will travel occurs in 3 areas: 1) off Tillamook in northern Oregon, 2) along the central Oregon coast between Florence and Newport (or between the northern part of the Oregon Dunes and our campsite at Beverly Beach), and 3) between Cape Blanco in southern Oregon and Cape Mendocino in northern California (including the northernmost redwood forests).
Generally there are 2 high tides and 2 low tides per day as the Earth rotates under the bulges and depressions, but the heights of the 2 low tides or the 2 high tides are not equal to each other. The orbital plane of the moon is not the same as the rotational plane of the earth, so the gravitational pull varies. As a result, the general sequence of the 2 high and 2 low tides during a 24-hour period is: 1) higher high tide, 2) lower low tide, 3) lower high tide, and 4) higher low tide. The lower low tides we will encounter will be early in the morning.
"Spring Tides" have nothing to do with seasons; they are the highest and lowest tides that occur when the sun and moon form a roughly straight line with the Earth. During a new moon, the sun and moon are pulling from same side. During a full moon, the sun and moon are pulling from opposite sides. "Neap Tides" (moderate tidal changes) occur when the sun and moon are at right angles to the Earth (during quarter moons).
The greatest differences in tides are during June and December, because these are when the Earth is closer to the sun during its elliptical orbit. Tides also vary with surface winds, atmospheric pressure, and other local phenomena (i.e., we want light winds and high atmospheric pressure when we visit the tidepools). Thus, tide tables offer only predicted tide levels. In the USA, tide heights are reported relative to the mean lower low tide (= 0 feet). The best low tides for viewing tidepools are below average levels (e.g., -1.6 feet).
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| Forest type |
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(years) |
per year |
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(years) |
per year |
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| woodland | 1,001,000 |
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12,000 |
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| ponderosa pine | 3,142,000 |
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1,438,000 |
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| mixed conifer | 399,000 |
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504,000 |
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| lodgepole pine | 757,000 |
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211,000 |
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| Douglas-fir | 4,444,000 |
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3,068,000 |
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| cedar/spruce/hemlock | 292,000 |
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1,291,000 |
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| subalpine | 1,075,000 |
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935,000 |
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Other Coastal Communities - Zonation
(see Highlights
from Previous Trips and handouts for more information)